Wednesday, August 24, 2016

Denali Highway with Lisa and Carolyn

Lots of cloud cover that limited some of the views...but it was a great road to drive.


8/15/16 Monday   Denali RV Park- Brushkana BLM campground on Denali Hwy  52 partly cloudy  high mid-upper 60’s
                I was told that the Denali Hwy was in bad shape but they have been working on in.  The first 30 mile to Brushkana campground has been in good condition.  The scenery was outstanding, views of snowcapped mountains and mountain streams all along the ride from Cantwell to Brushkana Creek.  We caught a moose in the middle of a small lake feeding on the vegetation grown on the bottom of the lake.  The water was up to the top of the moose’s shoulders.
                Had a camper know at the door as we were getting ready for dinner looking for a tire plug kit.  I was able to locate a plug kit that I purchased for this trip and loaned it to him.  I was not sure who would need it but I knew someone would and now I have found him.  After successfully repairing his tire he returned the kit as a happy camper.
                Brushkana creek is listed as a good Arctic Grayling creek.  There were several people fishing right at the campground when I wondered down to the creek.  One was fly fishing and 2 were using spinners.  No one was catching anything.  The one flying fishing was using a nymph I asked if he had tried a fly he told me he only had the one lure with him.  In looking around I found a trail that followed the creek up stream.  So I when back to camp and suited up with all my gear.  The creek was a bit fast and deep for wading for the most part but I when with the waders just in case the river offered some wading opportunities.   I hiked downstream about ½ mile stopping at potential spots that may have a grayling or two looking for dinner.  I never found a good wading area but I did locate a couple of good spots and caught 4 nice grayling in the 12-14” size.  Took them back to camp and cleaned them for dinner.  We opted to fry them, so dinner was fried grayling, french fries, cole slaw, and hush puppies with a good white wine and conversation. 16














8/16/16 Tuesday Denali Hwy Sarah Lake MM 63  Upper 40’s       55ish partly cloudy
                Got up at 1AM this morning checking on the Northern Lights…I found the sky overcast with rain.  So back to bed and we will try again tomorrow morning.
                Continued down the Denali Hwy today got up and a light breakfast took a few photos and left camp around 10AM.  We drove to mm 63 and setup at Sarah Lake for the evening.  Lot of great scenery along the way.  Stopped and picked some fresh blueberries, they are every were this time of the year.  The truck is getting back to a DIRTY truck and camper it is not clean any longer, rain and gravel roads tend to do that.  We had light rain all morning off and on.
The fuel stop at MM 80 a B&B had diesel but the pumps made me question the quality of the fuel so I opted to not fuel up just wait until I got to Paxton.  We are averaging 6-7 MPG on this leg of the drive.
We had an eagle that was making passes over the mountains near the camp site.  We had noticed that several campers slowed down as they approached the site as if they had wanted to stay where we were.   There is a single lane drive that leads into a small area next to Sarah Lake and there is not room for more than one RV s so we were hoping they would move on down and not try to squeeze in another RV here.   We had walked down to a bluff about 100 yards from the camper trying get a picture of the elusive eagle when we heard voices.  First thought was we have other campers setup close to us…and that would okay as long as they were not impeding out movements.  As we walked back     on the road we saw that the talking was from a couple of people on bicycles that had stopped at our campsite.  We go back to the site and a third cycler had arrived.  They were looking for a place to camp preferably near water and want to camp by the lake next to us.  The cyclist were three young women from the Fairbanks area that were cycling the Denali Hwy.  In talking with them they all had toured some parts of the Denali Park road but admitted there is just too much traffic in the Park for riding.  They had ridden 42 miles today and planned on 45 but the little lake was just too pretty for them to pass.
                Never did get a good picture of the eagle/s couple of distance shots but it was still a bonus to get to see one flying around the area.

















8/17/16 Wednesday   Glen Hwy MM 176                   Lower 50’s overcast light rain  66 partly cloudy
                Up this morning at 1AM and 2:30AM checking the shy for any sign of the Northern Lights.  The sky was partly cloudy with the moon still up at 1AM and at 2:30AM the moon was down but even more clouds so no Northern Lights this morning…maybe tonight.
                Lot of beautiful scenery yesterday and got lots of good pictures.
                Drove on through the Denali Highway to Paxton.  There is nothing in Paxton from what I saw other than fishing areas and a few B&B’s.  Spend the night on the Glen Highway with an outstanding view of the Wrangell Mountain’s.  Lots of pot holes but it was worth the slow drive to see all the great scenery that is along the Denali hwy.
                Looked like either hunting season has started or a lot of scouting going on along the Denali Highway.  Four wheels with gun racks and people using spotting scopes.  But no sign of any caribou or moose being harvested.

Sunday, August 14, 2016

Denali National Park with Lisa and Carolyn

Lisa and Carolynn arrived yesterday as scheduled at 2PM.  We picked up a few groceries (actually filled my frig) and a couple more bottles of wine.  We then packed up everything and headed for Denali RV Park on the Parks Highway.  We arrived at the park at 7ish they had one site available that we could fit into.  I knew it was going to be a fun site when one of the clerks commented “Yes J1 the one back on the hill”.  They walked back with me to see how I want to approach the site to back in.  It was a tight spot and when I started backing in 3 of the other campers came out and watched me back in as if they have seen others try and fail.  With a little luck I was able to back in with one try as much luck as skill but they will never know.  Once setup we road up to Denali National Park to check on shuttle tickets for Sunday, and lucky again they had tickets available.  After purchasing tickets we road into the park about 12 miles hoping to see some wildlife but all we saw was road work just about all of the first twelve miles was under construction.  It was too cloudy to see Denali and too much road traffic for wildlife….We made it back to camp about 10PM and my two friends appeared to still be on EST and would not even have a glass of wine it was straight to bed.  The day started for them with a 7AM Atlanta flight to Fairbanks that would make the 10PM to me their 2AM so it was time for so rest.
                Up early for breakfast and coffee.  We have a 9:30 AM shuttle bus in Denali National Park.

                Denali was a great day trip.  We found out that only 30% of the visitors get to see Denali.  This is due to clouds.  Denali is 20310 feet high and located 75 miles from the Denali Park Rd.  We were one of the lucky ones we are now in the 30% club yes we saw Denali and got some pictures.  We saw well of 12 caribou, so many at the end of the tour we passed on a caribou for a ptarmigan and her babies.  Saw one large grizzly, arctic ground squirrels, and black bill magpie.  Lots of breath taking views of the mountains and rivers inside the park.









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Denali at 20310 feet elevation and 75 miles away...the closer mountains are about halfway between this location and Denali.

Monday, August 1, 2016

Ophir BLM Campground drive

Blue Berries they are every where

More Blue Berries

7/20/16 Wednesday...Prindle BLM Campground
                46 this morning Mid 50’s for a high today.  Cloudy with rain.
                Lots of rain last night heavy at times actually waking me up.  I was going to hike toward Prindle Mt but with the heavy fog this morning and forecast for rain all day I think I will pass on the hiking.  8AM it is still 46 degrees.
                Batteries at 88% this morning.  Batteries were at 91% yesterday evening and 88% at bed time watched a movie.
                Tomorrow will be the 10th day here at Prindle and will have to relocate.  I have enjoyed my time here at Prindle course the weather has been great warm clear days and cool nights.  I have figured out how to catch grayling in the creek and lots of hiking options.  There is no shade here and even with the rain and overcast my solar panels and been keeping the batteries in good condition.  With the rain that is forecasted I need to stay in an open area and try to stay out of any shade sites.  I will check out Ophir Campground today to check the road condition and camp sites.
                Ophir BLM campground looks good some shade but not enough to effect the solar panels.  Plenty of sites I could fit into.  Picked some blue berries and caught a couple of grayling on the ride to Ophir.  The view at Ophir is not a good as Prindle more trees to block the views the creek is much larger here and free flowing few obstruction to create fishing hot spots.  The road was gravel and in good condition














White Mountain Recreational Area Prindle BLM Campground


Nome Creek

View around Prindle Campground

View around Prindle Campground

The ride into Prindle Campround

Nome Creek

Nome Creek

Nome Creek


View hiking above Prindle Campground

View hiking above Prindle Campground


View hiking above Prindle Campground

Here are a couple of my daily log entries

7/11/16 Monday  Prindle BLM Campground  Steese Hwy  AK
                Overcast cool
                MM 57 on Steese Hwy to U.S. Creek Rd on left.  U.S. Creek road is gravel good condition but gravel.  The ride in is 11 miles to Prindle Campground off Steese Hwy.  The views on the road into Prindle was breathtaking.  There was no snowcapped mountains but it was just rolling hills/mountains.  It reminded me of the mountains in Smokey Mountain National Park.  The trees and foliage is different but similar views that you see when at the higher elevations of the Smokey Mountain Nation Park.  At mile 7 on the U.S. Creek Rd you cross Nome Creek and continue on for 4 miles to Prindle or you could turn left and go to Ophir BLM Campground which is 11 miles from this intersection. 
I opted for Prindle campground.  A couple of weeks ago I had taken a road trip and visited both Cripple Creek BLM right on Steese Hwy MM 60 and Prindle BLM Campground.  Prindle is in a little valley with the campground all 13 sites next to Nome Creek and plenty of mountain views.  There were two other campers in the campground so my concerns of getting a site was unfounded.  I looked at the one on the creek but I opted for one on the opposite side of the campground.  I could set inside the camper reading and have a great view of a beautiful mountain side and tundra.
This area is off the grid I loss cell coverage about MM 25 on Steese Hwy no TV channels and only NPR and one FM radio station.  I can pick up the weather band radio channel out of Fairbanks on my CCrane radio.
Camping fee is $6.00 per night or $3.00 with my senior park pass.  The campground has pit toilets (clean and in good condition) and a hand pump for potable water no dump station.  The closest dump station is in Fairbanks about a two hour drive and 70 miles 11 of which is gravel.  Water management is going to be a high priority.  My plans are to stay here 10 nights which is the maximum time allowed at this BLM campground and then move to either Ophir or Cripple Creek so I need to conserve both my potable water and holding tanks.  


7/12/16 Tuesday Prindle BLM Campground
                75 degrees and clear today
                Beautiful day clear skies light breeze.  Hiked up the mountain behind my campsite (site 8) today.   The starting point I picked was pretty thick with undergrowth.  There is a OHV trail about a mile from camp that offered a little clearer starting point but I decided to start at my campsite.  The first section about ¼ of a mile was challenging but once I cleared the undergrowth the view was breathtaking.  I hiked up to the top of the closes hill/mountain and had a light lunch there.  The total distance to the top per my Garmin PN 60 GPS was .73 miles with an elevation gain of 700 feet.  About half way up I found a lot of wild blue berries.  The berries were not quite ready so I had to pick through to get a couple of handfuls of berries to snack on.  I had a container with me just in case I did find some berries so I picked some for the pancakes tomorrow.  The hike back down was not as challenging as going up but it was steep enough that I had to be careful and not take a spill.
                The campground is almost empty there is myself, one other lone camper and a group of about 20 young adults with a sky club out of Fairbanks.  The lone camper wants to be alone not very friendly.  The group in training pointed out several hiking options for me.  One trail I am going to try and do is the Prindle Mt trail, it is not an official trail just a path that people use to hike to the top of Mt Prindle.  You have to cross Nome Creek to gain access to the trail and it is about 5 miles to the top.



7/13/16 Wednesday Prindle BLM Campground
                51 degrees  High today around 80ish
                Made pancakes with the blue berries I picked yesterday…great pancakes.
                I started at the entrance of the campground and fished downstream.  I was using my 5 weight 9’ Redington fly rod and reel combo.  I had my doubts about catching anything the creek looks like it was too small and fast flowing.  I was there and I had to admit to myself I really didn’t know where the grayling maybe so what was there to lose.
Nome Creek is in the White Mountain BLM Recreation Area.  This is what I came to Alaska looking for.  The creek is about 20 feet wide in this area flowing a lot of water.  A challenge to wade for the beginner but I figured it out and learn how to pick my way around the deep areas.  The creek is about 18-24” deep and in areas has a deep channel that is too deep and fast to wade.  But with a little planning and thought the creek is easy to find a crossing area to allow fishing the opposite side.
                My first thought when I saw the flow of the creek was I would need to move more downstream to find any grayling.  Was I ever wrong in lieu of moving down stream I figured may as well try fishing right here.  It did not take long or very many cast to catch my first grayling.  I saw that my problem in the pass was I did not understand grayling or their habitat I thought I did but books can only give you so much information.  I now have the time and area to explore and lean how to fish for grayling.  I read one blog that someone stated that Nome Creek is okay but not a lot of fish and just an okay place to getaway and do a little fishing.  I probably don’t understand Alaska fishing but how could you ask for a better fishing area for grayling than Nome Creek…it is catch and release but plenty of fish and some great views.  At times I would have to wade down maybe a hundred or so yards to find the next spot but there was plenty of hotspot at least by my standards.  I fished for a couple of hours and caught 12+ fish and several in the 17” size most being in the 14” size which is a nice grayling, 18-20 inch is considered to be trophy size and I believe 23” is the record.  In two days of fishing I have not seen another person fishing.



More Nome Creek

More Nome Creek

Arctic Grayling caught in the Chatanika River
Nice size not trophy but nice by grayling standards

Arctic Grayling caught in the Chatanika River



Saturday, July 2, 2016

Rotel Tour RV/Bus

Rotel Tours
They flew into Toronto from Germany, a group of 24.  They toured across Canada into Alaska scheduled to stop in Tok then on to Anchorage via Fairbanks.  Due to rain they passed Tok and stopped here in Delta Junction.  The duration of the tour will be 4 weeks.

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The Kitchen area.  The tour group prepared breakfast and dinner each day of their travels.

I did not go inside but it appears to have 26 sleeping areas.  24 tourist 2 drivers/cooks.


The common area.